IL BAGATTO

You never forget your first love. And ours is Il Bagatto in Grazzano Badoglio, across from the village's sferisterio, in whose medieval convent church (dating back to 961) lies the final resting place of Aleramo, the founder of Monferrato. Next to the Tappa family's trattoria is their ice cream parlor and a shop selling the magnificent wines of Tenuta Santa Caterina. But in front of the bar, you'll also find a display selling the finest delicacies from Monferrato. A popular oasis, in short, where it's a pleasure to sit in the spacious dining room, mingling with the guests, while the owner explains the dishes and serves "his" wines (superb Grignolino, Freisa, Barbera). And it's unbelievable that he's been here for 50 years, with his beautiful wife, always smiling.

But be careful, they make the typical Monferrato dish, Piedmontese-style fritto misto, upon reservation. Otherwise, treat yourself to the veal with tuna sauce, served with a perfect sauce, the chicken and toma salad, and the gratinated asparagus. The tagliolini and agnolotti are superb (but what are gnocchi?), followed by roast guinea fowl with crispy potatoes, pork tenderloin with grappa, and finally, the rich and flavorful bonet. Finally, after a bow to the last of Monferrato's authentic hosts, you'll also feel like thanking Franca Poggio, the chef of happiness. They have a 20-euro menu (three courses), a 25-euro one, and a tasting menu for 35.