L’OSTERIA DEL CASTELLO - DA MARISA

This area of Monferrato has recently been in the spotlight because Portacomaro is the birthplace of Pope Francis's family, and for us at Papillon, it feels like home. In Castell'Alfero, in fact, there's a favorite osteria, set in the castle overlooking the town. It's the kingdom of Marisa Torta, who, with old-world elegance, manages the kitchen, overseeing the restaurant. Divided into two main rooms, the restaurant offers the option of dining, weather permitting, on one of the most picturesque panoramic terraces in all of Monferrato. In short, it's a truly privileged place, even more so with this cuisine that adheres strictly to tradition.
We begin with appetizers (€10), featuring one of the finest interpretations in all of Piedmont, the carne crudo con schivido d'aglio and the insalata russa. Don't miss the frittata or the marinated zucchini, because they'll make you go crazy and you'll want to keep eating them forever. And then the veal with tuna sauce, perfect, and the peppers with bagna caoda. Among the first courses, if there's one, don't miss the pasta and beans, but Marisa's fame is due to her legendary tagliolini (€10), in various variations, even with truffle in season. The gnocchi with sausage are also delicious. Among the main courses (€15), try the chicken in jelly in summer, while in winter we recommend the finanziera (a dish sadly almost lost but which here revives its former glory). The roasts and fried mushrooms are equally delicious, although the star dish remains the rabbit in Arneis. Those who have never tried it should finish the dinner with the delicious panna cotta, but also save some room for the coppa sabauda and the delicious bonet (desserts €8). Tasting menu at €38. The wine list focuses on the Asti area, particularly Barbera. A truly radiant stop!