LA FIORAIA

Ornella, a superb chef, runs this elegant hillside restaurant with a lawn behind the restaurant for al fresco dining. Working alongside their mother in the kitchen are two very young chefs, Maurizio and Manuela Cornero, the latter specializing in desserts. The raw Fassona beef with Roccaverano robiola cheese and salad in citronette sauce are perfect here (starters €13). Or the foie gras terrine with apple compote, tempura cod with fresh tomato sauce and toasted bread. She also makes a legendary aspic of vegetables, white meats, mustard sauce, and sweet and sour giardiniera. The agnolotti gobbi, among the first courses (€13), are textbook, but there are also potato gnocchi with pesto and the legendary tagliolini with rabbit and pecorino ragù or with mushrooms. Among the main courses (€16), the signature dish of La Fioraia will be worth the trip: tenderloin stewed in aged Barbera, served in bite-sized pieces. But there's also the Voronoff-style pork fillet, the veal tournedos with herb-infused zabaglione au gratin, and a selection of cheeses with mustards. And finally, the desserts (€9): pistachio perfetto with prickly pear sauce, cinnamon crème brulee, vanilla, peach, and mango mousse, raspberry coulis, and kiwi sorbet; hot chocolate, nougat ice cream, and orange zest.
Tasting menu at €55, traditional menu at €45.