ESTATE DI SAN MARTINO

It opened a couple of years ago, and we immediately received glowing reviews. Then there were a few lapses, especially in the service, and the radiant face faltered a bit. On our last visit at the end of summer 2014, however, we had a good time, even though service times remained a problem, and we suffered as a result during our dinner. In the dining room, assisting the talented young Alessandro Mecca (a son of a chef, having grown up in the family kitchen of the Crocetta in Turin), is now the experienced and highly skilled Davide Pistono. This little restaurant, in the center of this village, famous for its golden hen, is a gem, and during our summer visit, we dined on the welcoming terrace. On colder evenings, you'll be inside, on the two floors of this house with seating for about forty and a delightful tavern. The "Tradition" tasting menu is available at 30 and 40 euros (including wines); "Territory and Research" menu at €46 and €56 (including wines).

From our tastings and our visit, we highlight, among the appetizers (€13), the knife-cut Fassone tartare, the slow-cooked veal topside in tuna sauce, the golden hen in broth and Parmesan, the golden hen's egg with asparagus and anchovy, and finally the octopus, eggplant, tomato, and Taggiasca olives.
Among the first courses (€12), try the ravioli del plin, along with the tajarin with sausage ragù and 24-month-old Parmigiano Hombre fondue, the excellent potato gnocco with clams, red shrimp, and broad beans, and the Acquerello risotto creamed with tender quail. Some main course choices (€19): rump steak with caramelized pineapple, elderflower air, and sweet garlic; slow-cooked pork cheek with mashed potatoes and braised spring onion; slow-cooked veal head with honeyed onion, licorice, and salsa verde. And among the fish options, Mediterranean amberjack with green beans and potatoes flavored with marjoram.
Desserts are excellent (€6): Marco Vacchieri's cold zabaglione tart with blueberries and pistachios; chocolate in three textures with apricot syrup; apple strudel with fiordilatte ice cream from Agrigelateria San Pè in Poirino.
Go Alessandro!