DA TASCHET

The square in Rocchetta Tanaro has been the scene, quite literally, of many joyful events. Bruno Lauzi called what used to happen here "that strange Brazil." And it still happens, as the owner of this family-run establishment continues to serve food and drink.

Taschet has all the simplicity and warmth of a village osteria, where even late at night you can enjoy a break. The dishes are those of home-cooked holidays, from when guests were welcomed with the finest ingredients. The appetizers (€8) include cooked salami, anchovies in green sauce, veal with tuna sauce, peppers in bagna caoda, pickled tongue, and one of the best Russian salads I've ever tasted (from the Masiese school). There's also eggplant parmigiana or savory pie. A sampling of six appetizers costs around €14. Among the first courses (€8), you can't miss the agnolotti with stew sauce and the gnocchi with sausage sauce, or the pasta and beans, and, in the fall, a hearty chickpea soup. Other favorites include the tajarin with mushrooms or Rocchetta's signature dish, rustic cheese pie. For the second courses (€10), try rabbit in Arneis or stewed tripe, chicken cacciatore with peperonata, or cod made according to mother's recipe. But don't forget, you're in the "home" of a breeder (the owner, Carlo Bo, was among the most renowned for Piemontese beef), so the Fassone rib-eye steak is excellent and not to be missed. For dessert (€4), ask for Carlo's cheeses with house mustard, as well as tarts and bonet. A final word about the wine list, with 300 mostly Piedmontese labels, will remind you of one of the cult places of Barbera.

P.S. The cakes are by Daniella, a true Rocchette native, and the bread, tongues, and breadsticks are by Mario Fongo, another pillar that fuels the legend of this town.